Our dogs are geniuses. How many of us could hear the same word over and over again and decipher that it’s a request for different actions?
How often do you say to your dog, “Get down from there,” “Lie down” or “Sit down”? We expect our dogs to stop sniffing at the counters with the same word we use to tell them to lie down. In fact, some dog owners think their dogs will simply figure out if they’re supposed to lie down or just sit. Very clever indeed.
For most dogs, it’s luck of the draw and many of them keep their fingers crossed that they’re doing the right thing. In fact, lots of dogs do get it right. These are usually older, experienced dogs that have learned to not only listen to us, but take into account the situation at the moment. As he stands with his nose in the family dinner on the counter, an experienced dog assumes “Down!” must mean to stop what he’s doing, not lie down. Wouldn’t it be easier to use one word per action to make things more clear?
Let’s assume you want the word “down” to mean lie down, not get off something. To teach this, have your pup sitting and hold a treat very close to his nose. Draw the treat directly down to his toes while he watches. His head should be tilted down at this stage. As your pup follows the treat, slowly draw it forward along the floor and he should end up lying down. As soon as there is no space under his belly and his elbows are flat, mark this behaviour with a click or a Yes and give him the treat. Repeat a few times and as soon as he’s catching on, start to say “Down.”
This is all great if it goes well. Some pups simply stare at the treat and don’t move. Others stand up as soon as the lure is moved forward.
If your pup is staring at you and not the treat, or remains sitting, you can increase the value of the treat. Sometimes they need something a little more exciting than a piece of kibble. For the pups that insist on standing, it’s most likely that your treat lure is either too far away, or you’re moving it too fast. The key is to move slowly and methodically.
If you’re experiencing some difficulty, try luring your pup under your leg. Sit on the floor and put one leg out in front of you with a slight bend. Have your pup on one side of your leg and a reward on the other side. Encourage him to go under your leg. As soon as your pup is halfway through, his body should naturally bend into the Down. Mark this moment with “Yes” and reward. Your dog will soon be lying down if he knows a reward is imminent.
There is never any reason to force your dog to lie down by pushing on his back or using a leash under your foot. It’s easy to teach this with a reward, and just as easy to wean him off once he understands what you’re asking. Teaching rather than using force is always the best solution.
While most puppy owners teach a Sit first, then teach a Down from the Sit, you can also teach a Down from a Stand. It’s nice for dogs to understand that “down” is a body position and it doesn’t matter where you start.
To teach this, you need to have your pup standing up. Hold the treat to his nose, draw it slowly down between his front paws, then move it backward to under his chest. Your pup will follow the treat and as he does so, his body should automatically fold backward. The main difference will be that from a Sit, his behind is on the ground first; from a Stand, his elbows will go down first. The end result is that he’s lying down. Practise both ways so he starts to understand that
Of course, the next stage is, our clever pups try to outsmart us. Once they get the hang of lying down for a reward, they try to wait us out. As soon as your pup understands the action of lying down, start to delay giving the treat. Mark the action with a click or Yes, but don’t present the treat immediately, so your pup will learn to hold this position longer. By adding the word “stay” after the word “down,” you will be able to leave your dog on his mat while you calmly eat your dinner – an exciting concept for most dog owners.
Once your pup understands that a Down means belly flat on the floor, you can start to proof it. Proofing is normally done by starting in a quiet environment until your dog understands what you’re asking, then slowly adding distractions.
When you proof a dog for a new word, you need to take a step back in your expectations each time you add a distraction. For example, your dog is now lying down when asked, and staying for a minute. You are ready to add distractions – clapping your hands or rolling a ball across the floor. At this time, you would not leave your dog for a minute. Add your distraction and attempt to leave your dog in the Down for 30 seconds. Once he has mastered that, add more time. Continue adding new distractions and fluctuating the time. Once he understands that holding the Down will get him a reward, you can start to work him outside in a safe area or on a leash.
“Down” can be used in everyday life. By teaching your dog to lie on his mat when company comes, your well-behaved dog can greet guests once they’re in the door and he’s invited over. Even in dog sports, “down” can be useful. Sometimes we need a moment to collect our thoughts. A dog in Down is more likely to chill out for a moment while we get organized. Travelling with the SuperDogs team, I’m often in a situation where I need to put my full attention elsewhere, and knowing my dogs will lie down beside me while I’m at the ticket counter or waiting in line is very helpful.
It’s a joy to see dogs out in public in a Down-Stay. When I go into my bank, I have my dogs lie down in the corner, where I can keep an eye on them. The re-actions of staff and customers are delight and amazement. Many comments include the word “wish.” I smile when I hear, “I wish my dog would do that.” As we all know, it’s not about wishing, it’s about action and teaching a stable Down. Asking your dog to hold that position requires practice and patience, but is always worth the effort.
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